Plants for Dry Sun

Asclepias speciosa (Showy Milkweed)

Rosa rugosa 'Hansa'

Kniphofia 'Percy's Pride' (Torch Lily)

Eryngium amethystinum (Sea Holly)

Hypericum 'Hidcote' (St John's Wort)

This is a list of reasonably drought tolerant plants for full sun, or mostly sun in Seattle.  These plants will need some water during summer, when there is not sufficient rainfall.  They are also not so very xeric as to rot during wet winters, but require good drainage.

Shrubs
Arctostaphylos columbiana (Hairy Manzanita) Arctostaphylos densiflora (Vine Hill Manzanita) Arctostaphylos ‘Sunset’ & others
Berberis thunbergii 'Crimson Pygmy', Berberis thunbergii 'Helmond Pillar', Berberis thunbergii 'Rose Glow', Berberis thunbergii 'Royal Cloak' (Japanese Barberry) & others
Calluna vulgaris (Heather)
Caryopteris x clandonensis (Bluebeard)
Daboecia cantabrica (Irish Heath)
Erica arborea 'Estrella Gold', Erica australis, Erica carnea, Erica x darleyensis (Heath) & others
Hebe buxifolia, Hebe ochracea, Hebe 'Red Edge', Hebe topiaria, Hebe ‘Western Hills’ & others

Helichrysum angustifolium (Curry Plant) Helichrysum italicum
Hypericum androsaemum 'Albury Purple', Hypericum 'Hidcote' (St John's Wort) & others

Lavandula angustifolia (English Lavender) Lavandula dentata (French Lavender) Lavandula stoechas (Spanish Lavender)
Lithocarpus densiflorus var. echinoides (Dwarf Tanoak)
Myrtus communis (Common Myrtle)
Olearia x haastii, Olearia x mollis
Phlomis fruticosa (Jerusalem Sage) & other species
Potentilla fruticosa (Cinquefoil)
Rosa rugosa (Sea Tomato)

Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)

Santolina chamaecyparissus (Lavender Cotton)
Senecio monroi (name changed to Brachyglottis)
Yucca filamentosa ‘Color Guard’, Yucca filamentosa ‘Bright Edge’ (Yucca)

Perennials
Achillea millefolium (Yarrow)
Allium (Ornamental Onion) many species
Armeria maritima (Thrift)

Asclepias tuberosa (Orange Milkweed) Asclepias speciosa (Showy Milkweed)
Aster (Michaelmas Daisy)
Baptisia australis (False Indigo)
Camassia leichtlinii, Camassia quamash (Camas)
Crocus many species
Echinops ritro (Globe Thistle)
Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower)
Erigeron glaucus (Beach Aster) Erigeron karvinskianus (Santa Barbara Daisy) Erigeron speciosus (Showy Fleabane) & others
Eryngium amethystinum, Eryngium bourgatii, Eryngium variifolium (Sea Holly) & others
Euphorbia characias, Euphorbia x martinii, Euphorbia rigida (Spurge): & others
Geranium cantabrigiense, Geranium sanguineum (Cranesbill) & others
Helianthemum nummularium (Sunrose)
Helenium autumnale (Sneezeweed)
Hemerocallis (Daylily)
Hyacinthus orientalis (Hyacinth)
Iris douglasiana (Douglas Iris)
Kniphofia (Torch Lily)
Lobelia tupa (Tupa)
Ornithogalum umbellatum (Star of Bethlehem)
Paeonia (Peony)
Panicum virgatum (Switchgrass)
Romneya coulteri (Matilija Poppy)
Salvia (Sage)
Scilla peruviana (Giant Squill)
Tulipa batalinii, Tulipa turkestanica (Tulip) & other species
Scrophularia macrantha
Sedum 'Autumn Joy', Sedum 'Matrona', Sedum 'Vera Jameson' (Stonecrop) & others

Groundcovers
Arctostaphylos x media (A columbiana x A uva-ursi) Arctostaphylos nevadensis (Pinemat Manzanita) Arctostaphylos uva-ursi(Kinnikinnick) & other species
Aubrieta deltoidea (Rock Cress)
Aurinia saxatilis (Basket of Gold)
Campanula carpatica (Carpathian Harebell)
Ceanothus gloriosus (Point Reyes Ceanothus) Ceanothus griseus var. horizontalis (Carmel Creeper)
Hebe glaucophylla, Hebe x pimeleoides, Hebe pinguifolia 'Pagei' (Hebe)
Hypericum cerastioides (St John’s Wort)
Juniperus conferta (Shore Juniper) Juniperus procumbens (Japanese Garden Juniper) Juniperus squamata 'Blue Carpet'
Lithodora diffusa (Lithodora)
Penstemon pinifolius (Pineleaf Beardtongue)
Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’ (Trailing Rosemary)
Sedum oreganum, Sedum reflexum 'Angelina', Sedum spathulifolium 'Cape Blanco', Sedum spurium (Stonecrop) & others
Veronica pectinata (Woolly Speedwell) Veronica prostrata (Harebell Speedwell)

Why Gardens Fail

Here are some common reasons why gardens fail in Seattle & everywhere else.

1. The garden was overcome by weeds.

I think this is the most common reason gardens fail.  Even experienced gardeners have trouble keeping up with weeds in a newly planted space.  Neophytes have no idea how much time weeding can take.  You should probably be out there at least once a week, scouting for weeds & digging them out.  I can’t count the number of times I have seen the remnants of a garden, completely or partially covered with weeds.  Himalayan blackberry (Rubus discolor) is particularly vicious.  But even smaller weeds like dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) can quickly spread to cover small plants, depriving them of sunlight & causing them to die.  After several years, the time spent weeding becomes less, as plants grow to shade more of the ground.  Most weed seeds sprout only on ground that is exposed to sunlight. Planting spreading groundcovers will help.  But you will always need to be vigilant about weeds.  A fellow gardener told me that people often ask what he does to control weeds.  His answer, ‘I pull them out.’

2. The garden wasn’t watered often enough during the summer.

New gardens must be watered frequently, sometimes daily, during hot weather when the soil dries quickly.  This is particularly important in Seattle where it barely rains at all during the summer.  Planting in the fall helps plants to establish wide-spreading roots that will help them find moisture when the soil begins to dry.  Avoid planting in the late spring or summer.  It is probably easier to keep plants alive in pots than in the ground.  In either case, you may have to water daily.  Newly planted plants should be checked & watered carefully for 2 summers.  After that, once a week is usually enough, except during very hot weather.  Try to select drought tolerant plants for sunny gardens.

3. Dead plants were not replaced.

I know this is bad news.  But plants die all the time for no good reason.  You should have a budget to replace plants that die each year.  Gardens with lots of empty spaces are not very appealing.  Spreading groundcovers will help to fill empty spaces.  No garden should be without them.  But even so, if a plant is not replaced, especially a shrub or tree, the gap in your garden will be obvious.

4. The garden was poorly planned.

Take the time to plan your garden.  Many people make the mistake of using plants that are not appropriate for the site.  Plants that prefer shade are planted in full sun.  Plants that need sun are planted in shade.  These plants don’t always die.  But they seldom look robust & often look sickly.  Do the research.  This also goes for the size of plants, which is very often under-estimated.  The tags on plants usually give the size in 5 to 10 years.  Many plants get much larger than the size indicated on the tag.  When plants get too large they crowd out other plants, grow onto paths & sidewalks, cover windows, press against the eaves of the house.  While that is bad enough, it often leads to even worse, which is bad pruning.  Many shrubs & trees do not look good when heavily pruned.  The natural form of the plant is as important as the foliage & the flowers. 

5. Shrubs & trees were pruned badly, or not pruned at all.

There are 2 problems I see all the time.  The 1st is bad pruning.  In many cases the plant will never recover its natural beauty.  It really does not look good when every shrub in the garden is sheared into a ball.  And yet, you see it again & again.  Many ‘professional’ gardeners can’t do anything else.  There are many other ways to prune badly, leaving plants looking hacked.  Learn how to do it right.  There are plenty of books & websites that will show you how.  Try The Hillier Gardener's Guide to Trees & Shrubs edited by John Kelly or the Sunset Western Garden Book.   Hire gardeners & arborists with good references.  In Seattle, contact Plant Amnesty to get the names of professionals who know how to prune, or find classes on pruning.  The 2nd problem comes when no pruning is done at all.  The result is a jumble of shrubs & trees with awkward shapes & broken branches.  Nearly everything should be pruned, just not too much.  It takes time, education & experience to get it right.

6. The garden was unloved by its owner.

If everything above has happened to your garden, who would blame you?  But there is something more subtle that can lead to a negative attitude about your garden.  Don’t keep plants you don’t like.  I’ve heard this said many times, ‘I don’t really like that plant, but it’s green & I don’t know what I would replace it with.’  Or they don’t want to spend the money to replace it.  Or they don’t want to go to that much trouble.  But how can you expect to be happy with a garden filled with plants you don’t like?  Get rid of them!  Fill your garden with plants you love.

A Washington Native Formal Shade Garden

Washington Native Formal Shade Garden

Here is a formal shade garden, for Seattle & the Pacific Northwest Coast, using native plants.  The use of native plants has steadily increased in Seattle to the point where most nurseries now stock a fairly wide variety.  While it may be that I have been reading too many European garden blogs, it seems that formal gardens are also becoming more popular.  In any case, there is no need to use native plants only in wild gardens.  If your taste is for symmetry, you can achieve this with native plants.  

Both deciduous & evergreen plants are used in this garden.  Quercus garryana (Garry Oak) is the center of this garden.  It slowly grows to be a large & spreading deciduous tree.  Two sides of the garden are lined with the much smaller Acer circinatum (Vine Maple) which are very colorful in fall.  The most interesting feature of this garden is a double row of Sambucus racemosa (Red Elderberry).  Reaching 18 feet in height, the arching canes will meet over head at the center of the walks, forming a pleached allee.  Some lower branches may need to be removed for passage.  Vaccinium ovatum (Evergreen Huckleberry) can be pruned into relatively uniform hedges.  It is best not to clip them severely.  Blechnum spicant (Deer Fern) is an evergreen perennial lining the walks.  Space these about 18 inches apart.  You will need to choose at least 1 additional groundcover to spread throughout the area behind them.  Oxalis oregana (Redwood Sorrel) &/or Fragaria vesca (Woodland Strawberry) would give the most effective coverage.  Specific shrubs, perennials & groundcovers are indicated.  Use the additional perennials & groundcovers to fill empty spaces.  

The main entry walk is 4 feet wide.  Secondary walks are 3 feet wide.  You can pave these in brick, stone or concrete.  Use mortar, or the cracks will be invaded by plants.  The entire garden is 40 feet by 30 feet across.  Seattle lots are usually 40 or 50 feet wide.  If your lot is 50 feet wide, you can add 2 more rows of Acer circinatum (Vine Maple) along the sides.  Because this plan is symmetrical, solar orientation won’t matter.  This garden would be best in a shaded area.  The trees & shrubs are tolerant of sun & shade.  They will eventually grow to shade the woodland plants beneath them.  If you have room, you can add other gardens beyond this.  A bosque or thicket would work well, especially along property lines.  Remove the benches & continue the walks into adjacent spaces. 

Washington Native Formal Shade Garden Plan

Trees
AC = Acer circinatum (Vine Maple): total # 16
G = Quercus garryana (Garry Oak): total # 1
Shrubs
PH = Physocarpus capitatus (Ninebark): total # 4
R = Rhododendron macrophyllum: total # 12, evergreen
S = Sambucus racemosa (Red Elderberry): total # 8
V = Vaccinium ovatum (Evergreen Huckleberry): total # 12, evergreen
Perennials
AR = Aruncus dioicus (Goat’s Beard): total # 4
B = Blechnum spicant (Deer Fern): total # 72, evergreen
E = Erythronium oregonum (Fawn Lily): total # 8
P = Polystichum munitum (Sword Fern): total # 12, evergreen
TE = Tellima grandiflora (Fringecup): total # 16, evergreen
TR = Trillium ovatum (Wakerobin): total # 4
Groundcovers
A = Asarum caudatum (Wild Ginger): total # 8, evergreen
D = Dicentra formosa (Bleeding Heart): total # 12

Additional Perennials & Groundcovers
Achlys triphylla (Vanilla Leaf)
Cornus canadensis (Bunchberry): evergreen
Corydalis scouleri (Scouler's Corydalis)
Disporum hookeri (Hooker’s Fairybells)
Fragaria vesca (Woodland Strawberry): will spread throughout, evergreen
Heuchera glabra, Heuchera micrantha (Alum Root): evergreen
Maianthemum dilatatum (False Lily of the Valley): will spread throughout
Oxalis oregana (Redwood Sorrel): will spread throughout
Smilacina stellata (Starry False Solomon’s Seal): will spread throughout
Tiarella trifoliata (Foamflower): evergreen
Tolmiea menziesii (Piggyback Plant): evergreen
Vancouveria hexandra (Inside-out Flower)

To learn more about these plants read Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast by Pojar & MacKinnon, or visit the Washington Native Plant Society website.

Trees

Cupressus sempervirens April 2011

Malus (Crabapple) April 2011

Arbutus menziesii in Seward Park April 2011

Magnolia x soulangeana March 2010

 Ginkgo biloba September 2010

Here is a list of trees for gardens in Seattle, the Pacific Northwest & USDA Zone 8. Many will tolerate colder climates.  They have good form, lovely flowers, colorful fall foliage & other characteristics that endear them to many gardeners. Most of these are deciduous.  Evergreen trees are noted.  Some may be difficult to find. When local nurseries fail, try mail-order nurseries.  Forest Farm is a good source for uncommon trees.  This list is not meant to provide detailed information on trees, but to introduce you to some you may not know, or remind you of those you have forgotten.  Basic characteristics are included to help you sort through the lists.  Be sure you know how widely these trees spread before you plant them, to allow enough space.  Narrow trees are listed separately here.  An abundance of detailed information is available on the web.  Good reference books on shrubs are The Hillier Gardener's Guide to Trees & Shrubs edited by John Kelly, Sunset Western Garden Book. 

Small Trees

Abies koreana (Korean Fir) Abies pinsapo (Spanish Fir): evergreen

Acer buergerianum (Trident Maple) Acer campestre (Hedge Maple) Acer circinatum (Vine Maple) Acer crataegifolium (Hawthorne Maple) Acer japonicum (Fullmoon Maple) Acer maximowiczianum (Nikko Maple) Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple) Acer pennsylvanicum (Moosewood): fall color

Aesculus pavia (Red Buckeye): flowers

Amelanchier alnifolia (Western Serviceberry) Amelanchier canadensis (Eastern Serviceberry) Amelanchier x grandiflora, Amelanchier laevis (Allegheny Serviceberry): flowers, fruit, fall color

Arbutus unedo (Strawberry Tree): evergreen, flowers, fruit can make a mess on pavement

Azara microphylla (Boxleaf Azara): evergreen, small flowers, narrow

Cercis canadensis 'Forest Pansy' (Eastern Redbud): purple leaves, flowers, fall color, Cercis siliquastrum (Judas Tree): flowers, fall color

Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Boulevard’ (Boulevard Cypress): evergreen, slow growth

Cladrastis lutea (Yellow Wood): flowers, fall color

Cornus kousa (Korean Dogwood) Cornus mas (Cornelian Cherry): flowers, fruit

Crataegus laciniata, Crataegus laevigata ‘Rosea Flore Pleno’ (English Hawthorn) Crataegus phaenopyrum (Washington Hawthorn) Crataegus prunifolia: flowers, fruit, fall color

Cupressus arizonica var. glabra ‘Blue Ice’ (Arizona Cypress): evergreen

Franklinia alatamaha (Franklin Tree): flowers, fall color

Genista aetnensis (Mt Aetna Broom): flowers

Hamamelis x intermedia, Hamamelis mollis (Witch Hazel): fragrant flowers, fall foliage

Laburnum alpinum, Laburnum anagyroides, Laburnum x watereri (Goldenchain Tree): flowers

Magnolia ashei, Magnolia ‘Elizabeth’, Magnolia x soulangeana (Magnolia): flowers

Malus ‘Adams’, Malus ‘Dartmouth’, Malus ‘Katherine’, Malus ‘Thunderchild’ (Crabapple): & many other cultivars, flowers, fruit can make a mess on pavement

Oxydendron arboreum (Sourwood): flowers, fall color

Parrotia persica (Parrotia): fall color

Pinus cembra (Swiss Stone Pine) Pinus edulus (Pinyon Pine): evergreen

Podocarpus macrophyllus (Yew Pine): evergreen, not a pine

Prunus cerasifera ‘Thundercloud’ (Flowering Plum) Prunus mume (Japanese apricot) Prunus serrula, Prunus serrulata (Flowering Cherry): flowers

Pyrus calleryana ‘Bradford’ (Bradford Pear): flowers, fall color, Pyrus salicifolia 'Pendula' (Weeping Willow-leafed Pear): flowers, silver foliage, weeping form

Quercus gambelii (Gambel Oak): tolerates dryness

Rhododendron macabeanum, Rhododendron rex, Rhododendron sinogrande: evergreen, flowers

Rhus typhina (Staghorn Sumac): fall color

Sorbus cashmiriana (Kashmir Mountain Ash) Sorbus commixta (Japanese Mountain Ash) Sorbus hupehensis (Hupei Mountain Ash) Sorbus scalaris: flowers, fruit, fall foliage

Styrax japonica (Japanese Snowbell) Styrax obassia (Fragrant Snowbell): flowers

Taxus cuspidata (Japanese Yew): evergreen

Thuja standishii (Japanese Arborvitae): evergreen

Thujopsis dolabrata (False Arborvitae): evergreen

Trachycarpus fortunei (Chinese Windmill Palm): evergreen, the only reliable palm in Seattle

Ulmus japonica (Japanese Elm): fall color

Medium Trees

Abies amabilis (Cascade Fir): evergreen

Acer callipes, Acer davidii, Acer griseum (Paperbark Maple): fall color, interesting bark

Aesculus californica (California Buckeye) Aesculus x carnea (Red Horse Chestnut): flowers

Albizia julibrissin (Mimosa): flowers

Betula albo-sinensis (Chinese Red Birch) Betula jacquemontii (Himalayan Birch) Betula papyrifera (Paper Birch) Betula pendula (Silver Birch): fall color, beautiful bark, birches attract aphids which drip sticky excretions on patio furniture & cars

Carpinus caroliniana (American Hornbeam): fall color

Catalpa bignonioides (Southern Catalpa): flowers, pods

Cercidiphyllum japonicum (Katsura Tree): fall color

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Pembury Blue’ (Port Orford Cedar) Chamaecyparis nootkatensis ‘Pendula’ (Weeping Alaskan Cedar) Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Gracilis’ (Slender Hinoki Cypress): evergreen

Crataegus mollis (Downy Hawthorne): flowers, fruit, fall color

Davidia involucrata (Dove Tree): flowers, fruit

Fraxinus pennsylvanica ‘Urbanite’ (Red Ash): fall color

Gymnocladus dioica (Kentucky Coffee Tree)

Idesia polycarpa (Idesia): inedible berries

Magnolia macrophylla (Bigleaf Magnolia): flowers, huge leaves

Nothofagus antarctica (Southern Beech): fall color

Nyssa sylvatica (Black Gum): fall color
Pawlonia tomentosa (Empress Tree): flowers, large leaves

Picea breweriana (Brewer Spruce): evergreen

Pinus contorta var. contorta (Shore Pine) Pinus leucodermis (Bosnian Pine) Pinus pinea (Italian Stone Pine) Pinus monticola (Western White Pine): evergreen

Quercus chrysolepis (Canyon Live Oak): evergreen, Quercus garryana (Garry Oak): shade tolerant

Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Frisia’ (Golden Locust): yellow foliage

Sciodopitys verticillata (Umbrella Pine): evergreen, not a pine

Sorbus alnifolia (Korean Mountain Ash) Sorbus aria (Whitebeam): flowers, fruit, fall color

Stewartia pseudocamellia (Japanese Stewartia): flowers, fall color

Taxus brevifolia (Pacific Yew): evergreen, fruit

Tilia americana (American Linden) Tilia cordata (Littleleaf Linden): fall color

Large Trees

Abies concolor (White Fir) Abies grandis (Giant Fir) Abies procera (Noble Fir): evergreen

Acer macrophyllum (Bigleaf Maple) Acer platanoides (Norway Maple): fall color

Aesculus hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut): flowers, big leaves, fall color

Araucaria araucana (Monkey Puzzle): evergreen, unique appearance, historic in Seattle

Arbutus menziesii (Madrona): evergreen, flowers, fruit, lovely bark, native in Seattle

Calocedrus decurrens (California Incense Cedar): evergreen, narrow

Carpinus betulus (European Hornbeam): fall color

Catalpa speciosa (Western Catalpa): flowers, pods

Cedrus atlantica (Atlas Cedar) Cedrus deodara (Deodar Cedar): both are common in Seattle, Cedrus libani (Cedar of Lebanon): evergreen

Cupressus sempervirens (Italian Cypress): evergreen, narrow

Fagus grandifolia (American Beech) Fagus sylvatica (European Beach): fall color

Fraxinus americana (White Ash) Fraxinus latifolia (Oregon Ash): fall color

Ginkgo biloba (Ginkgo): fall color, unique appearance

Gleditsia triacanthos (Honey Locust): pods, fall color

Larix decidua (European Larch) Larix kaempferi (Japanese Larch) Larix occidentalis (Tamarack): deciduous conifer, fall color
Liquidambar styraciflua (Sweetgum): fall color

Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip Tree): flowers, fall color, very large distiguished tree

Magnolia grandiflora (Southern Magnolia): evergreen

Metasequoia glyptostroboides (Dawn Redwood): deciduous conifer, fall color, 'living fossil'

Picea abies (Norway Spruce) Picea oromika (Serbian Spruce) Picea sitchensis (Sitka Spruce): evergreen

Pinus densiflora (Japanese Red Pine) Pinus ponderosa (Ponderosa Pine) Pinus thunbergii (Japanese Black Pine): evergreen

Platanus x acerifolia (London Plane Tree) Platanus occidentalis (American Sycamore)

Platanus racemosa (California Sycamore): large leaves, beautiful bark

Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas Fir): evergreen, native in Seattle

Quercus coccinia (Scarlet Oak) Quercus lobata (Valley Oak) Quercus robur (English Oak) Quercus rubra (Red Oak)

Sequoia sempervirens (Coast Redwood): evergreen

Sequoiadendron giganteum (Sierra Redwood): evergreen, impressive

Stewartia monadelpha (Tall Stewartia): flowers, beautiful bark, fall color

Thuja plicata (Western Red Cedar): evergreen, sacred tree, native to Seattle

Tilia tomentosa (Silver Linden): fall color

Tsuga heterophylla (Western Hemlock): evergreen, native in Seattle

Narrow Trees

Acer circinatum (Vine Maple): fall color, native in Seattle

Azara microphylla (Boxleaf Azara): evergreen, small flowers

Calocedrus decurrens (California Incense Cedar): evergreen, narrow

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Ellwoodii’ (Port Offord Cedar): evergreen, formal

Cupressus sempervirens, Cupressus sempervirens ‘Green Pencil’ (Italian Cypress): evergreen

Ginkgo biloba ‘Tremonia’ (Ginkgo): fall color

Juniperus communis ‘Hibernica’ (Irish Juniper): evergreen, formal

Pinus ponderosa (Ponderosa Pine)

Prunus serrulata ‘Amanogawa’ (Flowering Cherry): flowers, fall color

Pyrus calleryana ‘Chanticleer’ (Chanticleer Pear): fall color

Quercus robur 'Fastigiata' (English Oak): fall color

Thuja plicata ‘Fastigiata’ (Hogan Cedar): evergreen

Thujopsis dolabrata (False Arborvitae): evergreen

Trachycarpus fortunei (Chinese Windmill Palm): evergreen,  the only reliable palm in Seattle

Purple Flowers

Allium schoenoprasum May 2010

Aubrieta deltoidea March 2010

Clematis x jackmanii August 2010

Pulsatilla vulgaris May 2010

Geranium phaeum May 2010

Purple lends richness and depth to the garden.  Purple flowers blend well with red & blue, contrast with yellow & orange.  Purple flowers look especially beautiful against blue-gray foliage.  I have included a range of flowers with colors from pale lavender to purple-black.  You may find that some tend toward red, blue or pink.  But these are all lovely purple or purple-ish flowers. 

Tree
Pawlonia tomentosa (Empress Tree): sun

Shrubs

Buddleia davidii ‘Purple Emperor’ (Butterfly Bush): sun

Daboecia cantabrica (Irish Heath): sun

Hebe ‘Amy’, Hebe ‘Patty’s Purple’ (Hebe): sun

Lavandula stoechas (Spanish Lavender): sun, xeric

Magnolia liliiflora 'Nigra', Magnolia x soulangeana 'San Jose', Magnolia ‘Susan’ (Magnolia): sun

Rhododendron ‘Sappho’, Rhododendron ‘Purple Splendour’ (Rhododendron): part shade

Rosa ‘Ebb Tide’ (Floribunda Rose) Rosa ‘Neptune’ (Hybrid Tea Rose) Rosa ‘Night Owl’ (Climbing Rose): sun

Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’, Syringa patula ‘Miss Kim’, Syringa vulgaris ‘Lavender Lady’, Syringa vulgaris ‘Adelaide Dunbar’ (Lilac): sun

Perennials

Allium aflatunense ‘Purple Sensation’, Allium christophii (Star of Persia) Allium ‘Firmament’, Allium ‘Globemaster’ (Ornamental Onion) Allium schoenoprasum (Chives): sun, tolerates dryness

Anemone blanda ‘Radar’ (Windflower): shade

Aster ‘Hella Lacy’ (Michaelmas Daisy): sun

Baptisia ‘Purple Smoke’ (False Indigo): sun

Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’: reseeding annual, sun

Crocus sieberi ‘Firefly’, Crocus vernus ‘King of the Striped’, Crocus vernus ‘Twilight’ (Crocus): sun

Delphinium ‘Purple Passion’ (Delphinium): sun

Digitalis purpurea (Foxglove): reseeding biennial, sun or shade

Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower): sun

Erysimum ‘Bowles Mauve’ (Wallflower): sun

Fritillaria persica (Persian Fritillary): sun

Geranium phaeum (Mourning Widow): sun or shade

Helleborus x hybridus, Helleborus lividus (Hellebore): shade, tolerates dryness

Hemerocallis ‘Barbary Corsair’, Hemerocallis ‘Bela Lugosi’, Hemerocallis ‘Strutters Ball’ (Daylily): sun

Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Purple Voice’ (Hyacinth): sun

Iris chrysographes, Iris cycloglossa, Iris sibirica ‘High Standards’ (Siberian Iris): sun

Liatris spicata (Gayfeather): sun

Penstemon x mexicali ‘Pike’s Peak Purple’ (Beardtongue): sun, xeric

Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian Sage): sun

Pulmonaria longifolia (Lungwort): shade

Pulsatella vulgaris (Pasque Flower): sun

Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’ (Meadow Sage): sun

Tradescantia virginiana (Spiderwort): shade

Tricyrtis ‘Empress’ (Toad Lily): shade

Tulipa ‘Abigail’, Tulipa ‘Jackpot’, Tulipa humilis ‘Persian Pearl’, Tulipa ‘Negrita’, Tulipa ‘Passionale’, Tulipa ‘Purple Prince’, Tulipa ‘Violet Beauty’ (Tulip): sun

Verbena bonariensis (Verbena): sun

Veronica ‘Eveline’, Veronica ‘Purpleicious’, Veronica ‘Total Eclipse’ (Speedwell): sun

Zantedeschia ‘Black Pearl’ (Calla Lily): sun, needs moisture

Groundcovers & Trailers

Aubrieta deltoidea ‘Cascade Purple’ (Rock Cress): sun

Clematis ‘Bonanza’, Clematis x jackmanii, Clematis ‘Wisley’: vine, sun

Liriope muscari (Lily Turf): shade, tolerates dryness

Mazus reptans (Creeping Mazus): sun