Friday, June 7, 2019

Roman Architecture of Vienne France

Part of the Roman Road

Jardin archéologique de Cybèle

Jardin archéologique de Cybèle

Le temple d'Auguste et de Livie

Le temple d'Auguste et de Livie

Le temple d'Auguste et de Livie. Photos taken in March 2017

The Jardin archéologique de Cybèle contains the remains of a section of the Gallo-Roman city.  There are arcades of a portico bordering the forum area, a wall suggesting the existence of an uncovered room & vestiges of a residential area with houses and terraces.  Construction dates to the beginning of the 1st century AD.

The temple of Augustus & Livy is a typical Roman temple with Corinthian columns, located at the center of the ancient city & still standing at the center of  Vienne.  The temple was dedicated to emperor Augustus & his wife Livy. There is construction from 2 different periods. Only the rear wall remains from the last quarter of the 1st century BC after the rest of the building, probably unfinished, collapsed.  There is evidence of fire.  The rest was rebuilt at the beginning of the 1st century AD.  The temple was originally dedicated to Augustus alone, but in 41 AD the emperor Claudius re-dedicated the building to include Livia, his grandmother.

After the fall of Rome, the temple became a church until the French Revolution.  It then began to have a series of different uses, including library & art gallery in the 19th century.  The temple was later restored to its appearance during the Gallo-Roman era.

This temple is similar to the Roman temple in Nîmes & presumably many other temples in Gaul. These temples are particularly interesting because they are so well-preserved.  They illustrate the model for many significant buildings constructed in Europe & America from the 17th to 20th centuries.

The return to classical styles in architecture began with Andrea Palladio (1508–1580). Palladian architecture grew from Palladio's ideas based on the classical temple architecture of the Ancient Greeks & Romans.  Palladianism got its start in Britain during the mid-17th century & then spread to the British colonies in North America.  A famous example is Thomas Jefferson's Monticello in Virginia.  I saw that building in the fall of 1973 with my father, an architect.

The Early Classical Revival style developed at the end of the 18th century took inspiration directly from the ancient buildings of Rome & Greece. While earlier styles were also inspired by classical forms, they used only architectural details & did not recreate the look of ancient buildings. The Roman Classical Revival & Greek Revival style copied the form of Roman & Greek temples. It recalled the power & influence of  the Roman Empire. Thomas Jefferson designed campus of the University of Virginia using ancient Roman temples as his guide.

The Neoclassical style is common in the United States. It was inspired by the World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago held in 1893, which promoted renewed interest in the classical forms of architecture. Neoclassical buildings have massive columns with classical capitals, topped by a front facing pediment. The arrangement of windows & doors is symmetrical.  The Neoclassical style was most often used for courthouses, banks, churches, schools & mansions.  My own high school was built in this style in 1912.

Friday, May 17, 2019

Jardin botanique de Lyon





Veltheimia capensis

Helleborus liguricus

Primula x polyantha


Photos taken in March 2017

Click here for more photos of the Jardin botanique de Lyon.

The Jardin botanique de Lyon is an impressive botanical garden in the French city of Lyon.  It covers 20 acres, near the city center, in the much larger Parc de la Tête d'Or.  I walked there, but it is not far from a subway stop.  The garden has existed here since 1857, when the park was first established.  It is France's largest municipal botanical garden. It is said to have 15,000 plants, with 3,500 species from temperate regions.  There are also roses, peonies, alpine plants, water lilies & many plants in greenhouses.   The greenhouses cover 70,000 square feet.  The largest greenhouse is one of the most impressive of the many greenhouses I've seen.  But the beds of perennials & shrubs, laid out in concentric circles, was the most interesting part for me, as a gardener.  This botanical garden is a must for people who love plants & visit Lyon.

Friday, May 3, 2019

Lyon Confluence


Jardin d'Erevan


Jardin Aquatique Ouagadougou

Jardin Aquatique Jean Couty

Place Nautique

Promenade du quai Rambaud

Promenade du quai Rambaud, Rivière La Saône

Click here for more photos of Lyon Confluence.
Click here for video of Place Nautique.

Lyon Confluence is a remarkable example of urban renewal at the old Port of Lyon. It is comparable to South Lake Union in Seattle, the Pearl District in Portland OR & other redeveloped urban industrial sites. The architecture here is bolder than in any other place I have seen.  This was the part of Lyon I found most attractive & interesting.  When it’s done, Lyon Confluence will double the size of the central residential area of Lyon.  The waterfront is more accessible here than in other parts of Lyon, which has grown up along the banks of the Rhône and Saône Rivers since the arrival of the Romans.  Place Nautique brings the Saône River to the center of the residential & commercial area with apartment buildings on one side & a shopping mall on the other.  Most of Lyon Confluence is less than 400 yards from water.  Parc de la Saône was built along the river, replacing a busy road with a 35-acre park designed by landscape architect Michel Desvigne.  It has separate paths for cyclists & pedestrians along with gardens & ponds that encourage & mimic nature.  Eventually it will be possible to walk or bike for miles along the Saône River, around the tip of the Confluence & then along the Rhône River.  Discussion of the redevelopment began in 1998 & work began in 2003.  Lyon  Confluence is expected to be completed in 2020.

Friday, April 19, 2019

Menton France













Photos taken in March 2017

Click here for more photos of Menton.

Menton is a pleasant little city on the Mediterranean coast of France near the Italian border.  During the 13th century, the Vento family of Genoa built a castle along the Roman road, now the site of the Vieux-Château cemetery, providing the core around which the current town grew.  This small, medieval town is now the oldest & most charming neighborhood in Menton.  The castle was built at the top of a steep hill, not very large, nor very high.  There are wonderful views of the Mediterranean Sea from the hill.  The view from the plaza by the two churches is stunning.  The rest of Menton is pleasant & peaceful with a certain amount of quiet activity.  There are as many stores & restaurants as you might need.   I was staying in Nice when I came here.

This is an urban landscape you would never see in the United States.  Hills like this are not developed into high density neighborhoods.  But very narrow streets like those of the medieval city could be used on level ground to form small & dense townhouse developments free of cars & near transit.  I've seen something like this done including garages.  But there should be car-free options for housing in an urban environment.  

From my travel journal: I got the train to Menton at 10 AM. The train took 40 minutes each way. I loved Menton! The 18th-19th century town was nice. The medieval hill town was fantastic! The narrow streets wound around & criss-crossed the hill, going under arches & up steps. The houses were nice, but not too nice. There were few tourists. Real people seemed to live there. The views of the Mediterranean, the city & surrounding hills were excellent from the top. There were 3 castles up there between 1200 & 1800. But two were destroyed in wars & the 3rd fell apart & was replaced with a cemetery. There were two interesting churches & a school on a small plaza halfway up the hill. People were out with their dogs. Farther up the hill some residents came with groceries & set the bags by their door. Their cat ran down the street & stuck its head in a bag. Then they all went inside. There was a market hall down in the lower city near the beach. Inside were stalls with fish, meat, or produce. One just had spices. I got a sandwich that was breaded & fried chicken fillets with fries in the sandwich, on an 8-inch baguette. It was oh so starchy. Pigeons harassed me while I ate it on a bench.

Friday, April 5, 2019

Jardin Exotique de Monaco







Photos taken in March 2017

Click here for more photos of Monaco.
Click here for a video of the view of Monaco from the Jardin Exotique.

The Jardin Exotique de Monaco is an extensive & densely planted succulent garden with excellent views of Monaco & the Mediterranean Sea.  This alone would be enough.  But in addition, there are two fascinating sites within the garden.  The first is a deep cave with guided tours.  The second is an engaging museum filled with artifacts found in the cave.  These items date back as far as the Neolithic Period.  There are bones of animals now extinct.  I used to live in the Los Angeles area & have seen many succulent gardens.  The plants here are the same as there: mostly cactus, Aloe, Euphorbia & Agave. Some are quite large.  The garden was dedicated in 1933.

Friday, March 1, 2019

Vallon des Auffes Marseille France

Plage (anse) des Catalans


Monument aux morts de la Porte d'Orient



Vallon des Auffes. Photos taken in February 2017

The Vallon des Auffes in Marseille France is a very charming piece of urban landscape with a small & enclosed harbor.  It is similar to, but much smaller than, the Vieux Port de Marseille.  The word vallon means 'small valley' & auffe is a species of grass (Stipa tenacissima) used to make rope, mats & fishing nets. Many small fishing boats gather here.  The harbor is surrounded by dense housing of many styles & sizes.  I thought the mid-rise residential towers were out of scale.  But after reviewing the photos, I think they make sense.  They are located far enough away not to overwhelm & near enough to provide a picturesque view for their residents.  The elevated bridge of the Corniche du Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy is imposing, yet elegant with its stone facing & 19th-century style.  I walked here from my hotel on la Canebière along the south side of the Vieux Port, then up to the jardin du Pharo, then along the coastline on the corniche, which has ample sidewalks.  I recommend this route.  The jardin du Pharo provides an excellent view of the Vieux Port.  I saw men playing volleyball at the plage (anse) des Catalans. This short bit of coast is lovely.  The monument aux morts de la Porte d'Orient (dedicated in 1927) is impressive & austere in its Art Deco style.  The Vallon des Auffes is quite popular with tourists.  But there were very few people out on the windy & chilly February day I was there.  It felt real in a way that a place with hundreds of tourists never can.  Please compare this small harbor with other waterfront posts on this blog.  Waterfronts are uniquely urban landscapes.

Friday, February 15, 2019

La Vieille Charité Marseille France

The entrance to La Vieille Charité

The portico of the chapel

The rectangular building

The chapel & courtyard.  Photos taken in February 2017

La Vieille Charité (The Old Charity) in Marseille France is considered a masterpiece of 17th century architectural design. The name of charité is misleading.  Beggars & homeless people were imprisoned here & forced to work, an uncharitable attitude common at the time.  La Vieille Charité is located in the heart of Le Panier, the old city of Marseille.  The grand architecture & open space is quite striking among the narrow streets & modest houses of Le Panier.  La Vieille Charité was built between 1671 & 1749, following the plan of architect Pierre Puget. The larger building is a 3-story rectangle surrounding a courtyard.  A chapel with a portico supported by Corinthian columns is at the center of the courtyard.  The portico is similar to those of Roman temples.  Both buildings are constructed of pink & yellow sandstone from ancient quarries at Cap Couronne.  Although it was not damaged during the French Revolution or WW2, it became quite degraded during more than two centuries of various uses.  La Vieille Charité was restored between 1970 & 1986.  It now houses the Museum of Mediterranean Archaeology & the Museum of Art of Africa, Oceania & Amerindia.  Both are only moderately interesting.  There is also a research library of archaeological documents, a school of advanced studies in social sciences & offices of the Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (French National Center for Scientific Research).