Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Wickets, Wickerwork, Whatever

 This wicker fence has been expanded to strengthen older (& rotting) uprights & extend the span to support more of the Crocosmia 'Emberglow' that grows behind it.  The 2 stakes on the right are new.  December 2011

This is the old section of fence from 2009. December 2011

This is new wickerwork that includes Paeonia suffruticosa stems among the uprights. December 2011

A more elaborate wicket for the largest Paeonia suffruticosa. December 2011

This wicker fence was woven in 2008.  The upright on the right (Weigela) rooted in place, helping to keep the fence standing.  I cut off new growth.  December 2011

Visitors to my garden have called these charming & clever.  But they've never given them a name.  I call them wickets, which sounds a lot like cricket.  I think it refers to weaving sticks together, in this case to support perennials & the notoriously floppy Paeonia suffruticosa (Tree Peony)  The dictionary says wicker means 'made of twigs.' These wicker fences are best at supporting perennials that flop in one direction.  I use them for Crocosmia.  I also use them for Helleborus x sternii, which backs up against shrubbery, or it would flop in every direction.  I use them with less success for Tree Peony.  The blooms are so heavy that they often need to be staked individually, preferably before the buds open & it rains.  This year I started weaving the peony canes in with sturdy upright poles (warp) & thinner cross-pieces (weft) cut from Corylus avellana 'Contorta' (Contorted Hazel) Viburnum & Weigela.  I think it will hold most of them up this coming spring.  I've been making these for 4 years.  Weaving is fun.  It's a reward for cutting hazel risers, which is tedious work.

Friday, October 21, 2011

Why Gardens Fail

Here are some common reasons why gardens fail in Seattle & everywhere else.

1. The garden was overcome by weeds.

I think this is the most common reason gardens fail.  Even experienced gardeners have trouble keeping up with weeds in a newly planted space.  Neophytes have no idea how much time weeding can take.  You should probably be out there at least once a week, scouting for weeds & digging them out.  I can’t count the number of times I have seen the remnants of a garden, completely or partially covered with weeds.  Himalayan blackberry (Rubus discolor) is particularly vicious.  But even smaller weeds like dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) can quickly spread to cover small plants, depriving them of sunlight & causing them to die.  After several years, the time spent weeding becomes less, as plants grow to shade more of the ground.  Most weed seeds sprout only on ground that is exposed to sunlight. Planting spreading groundcovers will help.  But you will always need to be vigilant about weeds.  A fellow gardener told me that people often ask what he does to control weeds.  His answer, ‘I pull them out.’

2. The garden wasn’t watered often enough during the summer.

New gardens must be watered frequently, sometimes daily, during hot weather when the soil dries quickly.  This is particularly important in Seattle where it barely rains at all during the summer.  Planting in the fall helps plants to establish wide-spreading roots that will help them find moisture when the soil begins to dry.  Avoid planting in the late spring or summer.  It is probably easier to keep plants alive in pots than in the ground.  In either case, you may have to water daily.  Newly planted plants should be checked & watered carefully for 2 summers.  After that, once a week is usually enough, except during very hot weather.  Try to select drought tolerant plants for sunny gardens.

3. Dead plants were not replaced.

I know this is bad news.  But plants die all the time for no good reason.  You should have a budget to replace plants that die each year.  Gardens with lots of empty spaces are not very appealing.  Spreading groundcovers will help to fill empty spaces.  No garden should be without them.  But even so, if a plant is not replaced, especially a shrub or tree, the gap in your garden will be obvious.

4. The garden was poorly planned.

Take the time to plan your garden.  Many people make the mistake of using plants that are not appropriate for the site.  Plants that prefer shade are planted in full sun.  Plants that need sun are planted in shade.  These plants don’t always die.  But they seldom look robust & often look sickly.  Do the research.  This also goes for the size of plants, which is very often under-estimated.  The tags on plants usually give the size in 5 to 10 years.  Many plants get much larger than the size indicated on the tag.  When plants get too large they crowd out other plants, grow onto paths & sidewalks, cover windows, press against the eaves of the house.  While that is bad enough, it often leads to even worse, which is bad pruning.  Many shrubs & trees do not look good when heavily pruned.  The natural form of the plant is as important as the foliage & the flowers. 

5. Shrubs & trees were pruned badly, or not pruned at all.

There are 2 problems I see all the time.  The 1st is bad pruning.  In many cases the plant will never recover its natural beauty.  It really does not look good when every shrub in the garden is sheared into a ball.  And yet, you see it again & again.  Many ‘professional’ gardeners can’t do anything else.  There are many other ways to prune badly, leaving plants looking hacked.  Learn how to do it right.  There are plenty of books & websites that will show you how.  Try The Hillier Gardener's Guide to Trees & Shrubs edited by John Kelly or the Sunset Western Garden Book.   Hire gardeners & arborists with good references.  In Seattle, contact Plant Amnesty to get the names of professionals who know how to prune, or find classes on pruning.  The 2nd problem comes when no pruning is done at all.  The result is a jumble of shrubs & trees with awkward shapes & broken branches.  Nearly everything should be pruned, just not too much.  It takes time, education & experience to get it right.

6. The garden was unloved by its owner.

If everything above has happened to your garden, who would blame you?  But there is something more subtle that can lead to a negative attitude about your garden.  Don’t keep plants you don’t like.  I’ve heard this said many times, ‘I don’t really like that plant, but it’s green & I don’t know what I would replace it with.’  Or they don’t want to spend the money to replace it.  Or they don’t want to go to that much trouble.  But how can you expect to be happy with a garden filled with plants you don’t like?  Get rid of them!  Fill your garden with plants you love.

Saturday, September 26, 2009

How to Control Weeds

Taraxacum officinale

The most effective way to inhibit weeds is to plant something in their place. Weeds will grow on any open ground. But most weed seeds will not sprout on densely shaded ground. The best plants to shade the ground are groundcovers, shrubs & spreading perennials. Weeds are less of a problem in shade. But seeds will still sprout on lightly shaded open ground.

I don’t want to discourage you. But there will always be weeds. You must be vigilant: Pull weeds before they set seed! Weeds come from seeds. Plastic, rocks, gravel & bark will not keep weeds away forever. Weeds mostly seed in from above. Bark & other mulch will help to keep weeds under control for a time, while other plants have a chance to get established. Be sure you can distinguish weeds from the groundcovers you have planted.

To get rid of weeds that already exist, you should probably just pull them out. It will help if you loosen the soil with a garden fork, hoe or hook. Don’t be fooled into thinking that is the end of the weeds. There are undoubtedly still seeds in the ground. Keep watching for new weed sprouts.

Weeds with long, fleshy roots (like dandelion & bindweed) will grow back, if part of the root is left in the ground. This is also true for blackberry. It can be very difficult to get all of the roots of a blackberry vine. If it grows back, keep cutting it off at ground level. I don’t think that herbicide is any more effective than cutting.

Sunday, May 24, 2009

How to Remove Lawn

Lawn is easy. That is why there is so much of it. It needs only mowing. But lawn is boring. Lawn does little to improve the environment. Watering lawn is costly, unnecessary & irresponsible. Grass survives almost any drought. If not, it can easily be reseeded. Unless you are ready to work many hours in the garden, it is probably best to remove only small areas of lawn. Lawns look better when they mimic a forest clearing, than when they evoke the wide-open prairie. If you have a small lawn, remove it. Or plant more trees around it. Don’t waste space in a small garden with lawn. If you have a big lawn, remove 5 feet somewhere around the perimeter. Plant shrubs & groundcovers. You can remove more area later for perennials & more shrubs. If you want to plant trees, you are to be commended. Remove 10 feet of lawn from 1 side. Plant the trees at least 5 feet from your property line. Know how far they will spread before planting. Do not use lawn as path. Grass is very invasive. Remember: Turf does not need to be dug out. Just cover it with 2 feet of compost.

Saturday, May 16, 2009

How to Make a Townhome Garden

Advice specifically for Seattle townhome gardens, but useful for small gardens everywhere, especially in USDA Zone 8.

1 Plant a tree. If your garden is small, plant the tree in the corner farthest from the building. If your garden is not so small, plant 2 or 3 trees along the property line away from the building.

2 Pave a small area near the door. 10 feet by 10 feet is good. Decide whether to call it a patio, terrace or ‘my fabulous garden room.’

3 Make planting beds in a U around the paved area. Buy lots of compost in bags from a big hardware store. Pile the compost 2 feet deep.

4 Choose 6 to 9 shrubs to distribute evenly around the U. Choose 7 to 18 perennials. Figure out how many plants will have to grow in sun, & in shade. Choose from the appropriate plant lists. Remember that bulbs & grasses are perennials. Consider using Clematis to climb shrubs. Don’t use too much of the same thing.

5 Plant the shrubs in the compost, halfway between the property line (fence) & the paved area. Plant perennials close to the edge of the paving, between shrubs.

6 Cover open ground with mulch. Buy shredded bark. Let fallen leaves be mulch. Always mulch around new planting. Do not put mulch more than 2 inches deep.

Design for a Townhome Garden

Tree
ACE = Acer circinatum (Vine Maple)
Shrubs
ARB = Arbutus unedo 'Compacta' (Compact Strawberry Tree)
HYD = Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea)
R1 = Rhododendron occidentale (Western Azalea)
Perennials & Groundcovers
DIC = Dicentra spectabilis (Bleeding Heart)
GER = Geranium phaeum (Mourning Widow)
IRI = Iris sibirica (Siberian Iris)
NAR = Narcissus jonquilla (Jonquil)
POL = Polystichum setiferum (Soft Shield Fern)

Sunday, April 26, 2009

How to Design a Thicket


Thickets are mysterious: dense, dark & impenetrable. They harbor wildlife, heard yet unseen. They are low-maintenance, best left unpruned & unwatered. Thickets may take the place of a bosque where height is restricted.

1 Define a space in your garden. Thickets are easy to maintain, so this can be a fairly large space. A thicket should cover a space at least 10 feet in each dimension. Thickets can be used as screens 10 feet wide.

2 Choose small deciduous trees, shrubs & ferns. A thicket should consist of plants that tolerate both sun & shade. The center of a thicket becomes densely shaded, while the south & west edges can be very sunny. Choose both evergreen & deciduous shrubs.

3 Buy lots of compost. You can order it by the truckload from Cedar Grove, or buy it in bags. Cover the garden site 2 feet deep. Plant in the compost.

4 Buy the plants. No single nursery will have all of the plants you want & need. Call around. Look in the phone book under Nurseries.

5 Space the plants at appropriate distances. Find out how big these plants will get. Plant them closely enough that the branches will interlock, but not so closely that they are crowded. 3 to 5 feet apart is good for most shrubs, 7 to 10 feet apart for trees.

6 Plant shady, drought-tolerant groundcovers under shrubs.

7 Cover open ground with mulch. Buy shredded bark. Use mulch from your compost pile or worm bin. Keep mulch under 2 inches deep.

8 For the 1st few years, water regularly during summer. Pull out weeds. Replace dead plants. Prune lightly around the edges, or not at all. Continue to watch for invasive plants like Blackberry, Holly & Ivy.

Plants for Thickets
Small Trees: deciduous, except as noted
Acer circinatum (Vine Maple)
Hamamelis x intermedia (Witch Hazel)
Pinus contorta var. contorta (Shore Pine): evergreen
Prunus ilicifolia (Hollyleaf Cherry): evergreen
Sorbus forrestii (Mountain Ash)

Shrubs: for sun or shade
Arbutus unedo ‘Compacta’ (Compact Strawberry Tree)
Holodiscus discolor (Oceanspray)
Mahonia aquifolium (Oregon Grape)
Oemleria cerasifera (Indian Plum)
Pieris japonica (Lily of the Valley Shrub)
Ribes sanguineum (Flowering Currant)
Styrax redivivus (Snowbell)
Vaccinium ovatum (Evergreen Huckleberry)

Ferns & Groundcovers: for shade
Dicentra formosa (Bleeding Heart)
Fragaria vesca (Woodland Strawberry)
Maianthemum dilatatum (False Lily of the Valley)
Oxalis oregana (Redwood Sorrel)
Polystichum munitum (Swordfern)

Design for a Thicket

Trees
Shrubs
Fern

Saturday, March 28, 2009

How to Design a Mixed Border

Mixed borders (or mixed planting beds) are those that combine shrubs & perennials. They have outpaced perennial beds to become the most common type of planting in Seattle. There is good reason for this. Mixed borders are more visually appealing, more varied, more interesting & less work than perennial gardens. Cottage gardens usually refer to perennial beds, but the cottage garden style is frequently applied to mixed plantings. Perennials & shrubs are most often informally intermixed.

1 Find a sunny site. This technique can work in shade. But it is easier in sun.

2 Choose a theme. You might choose plants from a certain region.  But it is probably easiest to work with color. You might decide to use a variety of different colors, a dominant single color, or a pair of contrasting colors. Don’t make it too complex. Try to take it easy.

3 Choose your favorite shrubs from lists of plants that match your theme. Shrubs will take up the most space. Decide where to place them 1st. Realize that they will cast shade as they grow. Learn their ultimate size in order to leave enough space between them for perennials. Consider repeating certain shrubs. Keep it simple.

4 Choose your favorite perennials from lists of plants that match your theme. Here you will be thinking more of flowers. But foliage is still important. Don’t use too many spiky-leaved perennials. This is easy to do. It looks boring. Think of grasses, bulbs & groundcovers as perennials. Be sure to repeat certain perennials. 1 of everything is just a big chaotic mess.

5 Buy lots of compost. You can order it by the truckload from Cedar Grove, or buy it in bags. Cover the garden site 2 feet deep. Plant in the compost.

6 Buy the plants. No single nursery will have all of the plants you want & need. Call around. Look in the phone book under Nurseries. Visit ALL of the nurseries near you. Order plants by mail, if they are unavailable locally.

7 Set the plants out on the compost. Shrubs should be near the center of the bed to give them room to spread. (This is particularly important if you are planting along a wall.) Place shorter perennials in front of shrubs & underneath them. Place taller perennials between shrubs. Place the tallest perennials at the back between shrubs, if you are planting along a wall. If you intend to walk around the planting bed, place the tallest perennials in the center between shrubs.

8 Move the plants while still in their pots. Shift them to allow the appropriate space between them. Be sure you know how big these plants will get. Buy a book which describes the growth habit & ultimate size of a variety of plants. The Sunset Western Garden Book is excellent for this purpose.

Design for a Mixed Border

AST = Aster
NAR = Narcissus

Saturday, March 21, 2009

How to Design a Privacy Screen

A privacy screen is used when you don't want to see what is beyond your property line, which might be the street, or the sidewalk, or in the case of 1 of my clients: a gas station.  It gives a sense of enclosure to your garden.  It creates a pleasing backdrop to your other plantings.  It can become part of a mixed border.  It is probably better to use a fence, if your space is tight.  But a privacy screen can grow much taller than a fence is permitted.  It is often less expensive.  Of course, it takes time to grow.  I don't recommend clipped hedges, which are high-maintenance & have a rigid, sometimes tortured appearance. Privacy screens can be pruned to limit spread & height, yet maintain a natural appearance. 

1 Choose the site. It will most likely lie along your property line. Allow plenty of room: a strip from 5 to 10 feet wide.

2 Choose 3 to 7 shrubs, depending on the length of the strip. Is the site mostly shady or sunny? If it has shade in part & sun in part, choose 3 to 5 shrubs for each part. Do not plant only 1 kind of shrub. That is called a hedge. Hedges are boring.

3 Buy lots of compost. You can order it by the truckload from Cedar Grove, or buy it in bags, Cover the garden site 2 feet deep. Plant in the compost.

4 Buy the plants. No single nursery will have all of the plants you want & need. Call around. Look in the phone book under Nurseries.

5 Space the plants at appropriate distances. Find out how big these plants will get. Give them enough room. If you don’t, you will have to remove them later.

6 Plant shady groundcovers under shrubs.

7 Cover open ground with mulch. Buy shredded bark. Put mulch from your compost pile or worm bin over open spaces in the garden. Always mulch around new plantings. Keep mulch under 2 inches deep.

8 Patrol the strip regularly: become territorial. Pull up weeds. Water regularly during summer. Replace dead shrubs. As the shrubs grow, notice the privacy they provide.

9 Buy pruning tools. You need pruners, loppers & a folding pruning saw. Go to a big hardware store. Cut off dead & broken branches. Do not shear the shrubs like a hedge. Learn about pruning. Buy a book which illustrates pruning & other gardening techniques. The Sunset Western Garden Book is good to start.

10 (Optional) If you have prepared a 10 foot strip, plant evergreen & deciduous shrubs in front of the spaces between evergreens. This will increase privacy & create more interest in fall & winter. Consider shrubs with fruits & berries, as well as shrubs with colorful fall foliage. A mixed border can also be used.

Evergreen Shrubs for Privacy Screens
Abelia x grandiflora: sun or part shade
Arbutus unedo ‘Compacta’ (Campact Strawberry Tree): sun or shade
Berberis darwinii (Darwin's Barberry): sun
Callistemon rigidus (Bottlebrush): sun
Calycanthus floridus (Carolina Allspice) Calycanthus occidentalis (Spice Bush): shade
Ceanothus ‘Victoria’ (California Lilac): sun, fast growth, but short-lived
Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange): sun  or part shade
Elaeagnus x ebbingei, Elaeagnus pungens (Silverberry): sun 
Erica arborea, Erica australis (Tree Heath): sun
Gaultheria shallon: sun or shade
Hypericum ‘Hidcote’ (St John’s Wort): sun
Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly): sun or shade
Itea ilicifolia: sun or shade
Juniperus chinensis ‘Blue Point’ (Chinese Juniper) Juniperus communis 'Hibernica' (Irish Juniper): sun
Ligustrum japonicum (Japanese Privet): sun or shade
Nandina domestica (Heavenly Bamboo): shade
Mahonia aquifolium (Oregon Grape): sun or shade Mahonia bealei (Japanese Mahonia): shade
Myrica californica (California Wax Myrtle): sun or shade
Pieris japonica (Lily of the Valley Shrub): shade
Rhododendron: shade
Taxus baccata 'Fastigiata' (Irish Yew): sun of part shade
Thuja occidentalis (Arborvitae): sun or part shade
Vaccinium ovatum (Evergreen Huckleberry): sun or shade
Viburnum tinus: sun or shade

 Design for a Privacy Screen

A = Arbutus unedo ‘Compacta’ (Compact Strawberry Tree)
C = Callistemon rigidus (Bottlebrush)
E = Erica arborea (Tree Heath)
S = Syringa meyeri 'Palibin' (Korean Lilac)

Saturday, March 14, 2009

How to Design a Bosque

A bosque is a grove of trees. Some mimic the forest, while others are more formal. Trees are spaced regularly, or more randomly. Bosques are evergreen, deciduous, or both. Larger bosques often have more kinds of trees. Trees planted in a grid may be underplanted randomly with shrubs & perennials. This technique was used to good effect at the Olympic Sculpture Park in Seattle, also at Schloss Nymphenburg in Munich. Large bosques grace many European palace gardens. Smaller bosques are lovely in all (except the smallest) gardens.

1 Choose the site. It will most likely lie in a corner of your property line. Allow plenty of room. The area should be at least 15 feet wide on 2 sides.

2 Choose at least 5 trees: all the same, or 2 different kinds. Also choose any number of shrubs, perennials & groundcovers for the shaded ground beneath the trees.

3 Buy lots of compost. You can order it by the truckload from Cedar Grove, or buy it in bags, Cover the garden site 2 feet deep. Plant in the compost.

4 Buy the plants. No single nursery will have all of the plants you want & need. Call around. Look in the phone book under Nurseries.

5 Space the plants at appropriate distances. Find out how big these plants will get. Give them enough room. If you don’t, you will have to remove them later. Plant trees 5 to 10 feet apart, depending on their ultimate size.

7 Cover open ground with mulch. Buy shredded bark, put mulch from your compost pile or worm bin over open spaces in the garden. Always mulch around new plantings. Keep mulch under 2 inches deep.

8 Patrol the strip regularly: become territorial. Pull up weeds. Water regularly during summer. Replace dead plants. As the trees grow, enjoy the shade they provide.

9 Buy pruning tools. You need pruners, loppers & a folding pruning saw. Go to a big hardware store. Cut off dead & broken branches. Learn about pruning. Buy a book which illustrates pruning & other gardening techniques. The Sunset Western Garden Book is good to start.

Trees for Bosques
Acer circinatum (Vine Maple)
Acer griseum (Paperbark Maple)
Aesculus californica (California Buckeye)
Araucaria araucana (Monkeypuzzle)
Nothofagus antarctica (Southern Beech)
Pinus densiflora (Japanese Red Pine)
Quercus suber (Cork Oak)
Sequoia sempervirens (Coast Redwood)
Sorbus alnifolia (Mountain Ash)
Thuja plicata (Western Red Cedar)


 Design for a Small Bosque

A = Acer circinatum (Vine Maple)
C = Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Gracilis’ (Slender Hinoki Cypress)

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Low-Maintenance Gardening

Neophyte gardeners seldom realize the amount of work it takes to make a successful garden. Low-maintenance is a relative term. Especially during the 1st few years, even a low-maintenance garden requires a lot of work. There is a reason that so many lots are covered with lawn & almost nothing else. Lawn requires by far the least amount of time & money. The most time-consuming chore is also the least appealing: weeding. Any new planting quickly becomes filled with weeds. Left to grow, they often choke out the new garden plants. Weed at least once a week during the 1st 2 growing seasons. Be very careful to water regularly during the summer. Inspect your watering system frequently to see that water is available for every plant. Even with this effort, some of the plants are going to die. Budget money to replace them. After 2 or 3 years things become easier, if you have prepared to keep maintenance low.

Rules for Low-Maintenance Gardens

1 Plant lots of shrubs. Next to lawn, they are the least trouble. They grow fairly quickly to shade & cover the ground. Most weed seeds sprout only in ground open to sunlight.

2 Plant lots of groundcovers. Not only do they shade the ground, but they compete for space with weeds. Leave no ground uncovered.

3 Cover any remaining open ground with mulch. Bark mulch does a good job of weed suppression until groundcovers get a chance to grow.

4 Plant few perennials. They require staking, dead-heading, cutting back & dividing. Choose perennials that don’t require staking, dead-heading, or dividing.  They all require cutting back.

5 Be careful what you plant under trees. Falling leaves, branches & debris can smother plants. Avoid planting perennials (except for bulbs) small shrubs & evergreen conifers under large trees. Use large shade-loving shrubs with perennial shade-loving groundcovers beneath them.

6 Avoid hybrid roses.  They are prone to disease & require constant pruning.

7 Avoid hedges or anything that needs to be clipped.  A fence is much less trouble.

8 Don’t plant next to lawn without a barrier. Grass is very invasive.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

How to Design a Perennial Garden

Perennial Garden

12 Important Pieces of Advice:

1 A small space is best for a perennial garden. Larger spaces need shrubs.

2 Perennials should vary in form & texture. There are many strap-leaved perennials & grasses. Too many together is boring. Put rounded leaves next to spiky ones.

3 Alternate plants of different heights, but not rigidly.

4 Limit colors to avoid chaos. Blend more than contrast. Use blue with purple, yellow with orange, pink with orange & purple, red with purple & blue.

5 Use perennials that bloom in every season. Visit nurseries often to see what is blooming. Read Bloom Times.

6 Buy 2 or more perennials in interesting color combinations when shopping. If you like something, buy more later.

7 Remember that bulbs & grasses are perennials.

9 Consider native perennials, especially in shade.

10 Do not become fixated on the number 3. Everything in triplicate looks highly contrived. Use the numbers 2, 3, 4 & 5 equally. Use 1 sparingly.

11 Understand that good design evolves over many years.

12 Visit open gardens with the Northwest Perennial Alliance, the NPA.

Read How to Make a Garden.

Saturday, May 31, 2008

How to Use Botanical Latin

You can’t get very far as a gardener without using Botanical Latin. Even names you take for granted (Gladiolus, Nasturtium, Rhododendron) are Latin. It is fun & useful to know the common names of plants. Latin names are essential.

Every plant has at least 2 names; the genus & the species. Sometimes there are additional names for subspecies, varieties & cultivars.

The plural of genus is genera. The plural of species is species. These are abbreviated as sp. for species singular & spp. as species plural. Subspecies is abbreviated as ssp., variety as var.

When writing Botanical Latin, capitalize the genus but not the species, subspecies or variety.

Do not worry about mispronouncing Latin names. Each name is pronounced many ways. Listen to people say a name. Pronounce it the way most do, or the way that sounds most pleasing to you.

It is proper to pronounce latinized surnames (Franklinia, Lobelia, Weigela) as they are in the original language. This is seldom done, for obvious reasons.  How many foreign languages can you correctly pronounce?

Cultivar names are almost always not Latin. This is now a rule for naming cultivars. Some Latin cultivar names (‘Alba’, ‘Nana’, ‘Variegata’) were retained from the past. Cultivar names are capitalized & enclosed in single quotation marks.

Buy a dictionary of Botanical Latin to learn the meaning of plant names & for whom plants were named. You may be surprised to read that many Botanical Latin names are Greek (Iris, Hydrangea, Narcissus).

Recommended Reference Book:

Stearn’s Dictionary of Plant Names for Gardeners
William T Stearn
Cassell Publishers

Friday, May 2, 2008

How to Make a Garden

1 Choose the site. Define the space. Contain the size. Don’t overwhelm yourself with work. Start on a small scale.

2 Choose the plants: Is the site mostly shady or sunny? Find plant lists appropriate to the site. Choose trees 1st. The globe is warming: plant trees. Anticipate that these trees will cast shade. Choose plants for shade to plant under & north of your trees. Choose lots of shrubs, maybe 10 different kinds. Shrubs are low maintenance. It is okay to plant 1 of a few of them. Balance those with 2 & 3 of other kinds of shrubs. Choose groundcovers. These are essential to control weeds. Choose many different groundcovers. Plant 2 or 3 plants of the same groundcover together. Plant different groundcovers in different parts of the garden. Plant shady groundcovers under shrubs.

3 Buy lots of compost. You can order it by the truckload from Cedar Grove or buy it in bags. Cover the garden site 2 feet deep. Plant in the compost.

4 Buy the plants. No single nursery will have all of the plants you want & need. Call around. Look in the phone book under Nurseries. Google: Seattle Nurseries. Visit ALL of the nurseries near you. Order plants by mail, if they are unavailable locally.

5 Space the plants at appropriate distances. Find out how big these plants will get. Give them enough room. If you don’t, you will have to move (or remove) them later. Plant shady groundcovers under shrubs. Fill spaces between shrubs with groundcovers. Leave some room for perennials.

6 Add a few perennials. You will want the color & excitement of perennial flowers. But don’t use too many. Perennials require much more work than other plants.

7 Cover open ground with mulch. Buy shredded bark. Let fallen leaves be mulch. Put mulch from your compost pile or worm bin over open spaces in the garden. Always mulch around new plantings. Do not put mulch more than 2 inches deep.

8 Patrol your garden regularly: become territorial. Pull up weeds. See that plants don’t shrivel or turn brown from lack of water. Water regularly during summer. Replace dead plants. Make peace with insects & encourage spiders. Speak firmly to destructive animals. Put snails in paper bags & throw them in the yard waste bin.

9 Buy pruning tools. You need pruners, loppers & a folding pruning saw. Go to a big hardware store. Cut off dead & broken branches. Learn about pruning. Buy a book which illustrates pruning & other gardening techniques. The Sunset Western Garden Book is good to start.

10 Invite people to visit your garden. They will give you useful advice. You will be motivated to improve your garden. Their comments will make you proud. Join the Northwest Perennial Alliance & become 1 of the Open Gardens.