The Vallon des Auffes in Marseille France is a very charming piece of urban landscape with a small & enclosed harbor. It is similar to, but much smaller than, the Vieux Port de Marseille. The word vallon means 'small valley' & auffe is a species of grass (Stipa tenacissima) used to make rope, mats & fishing nets. Many small fishing boats gather here. The harbor is surrounded by dense housing of many styles & sizes. I thought the mid-rise residential towers were out of scale. But after reviewing the photos, I think they make sense. They are located far enough away not to overwhelm & near enough to provide a picturesque view for their residents. The elevated bridge of the Corniche du Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy is imposing, yet elegant with its stone facing & 19th-century style. I walked here from my hotel on la Canebière along the south side of the Vieux Port, then up to the jardin du Pharo, then along the coastline on the corniche, which has ample sidewalks. I recommend this route. The jardin du Pharo provides an excellent view of the Vieux Port. I saw men playing volleyball at the plage (anse) des Catalans. This short bit of coast is lovely. The monument aux morts de la Porte d'Orient (dedicated in 1927) is impressive & austere in its Art Deco style. The Vallon des Auffes is quite popular with tourists. But there were very few people out on the windy & chilly February day I was there. It felt real in a way that a place with hundreds of tourists never can. Please compare this small harbor with other waterfront posts on this blog. Waterfronts are uniquely urban landscapes.
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